Hey folks, here’s a quick overview of how you can rebuild application specific fox 2.5″ Coilovers with Dual Compression adjusters for the front end of a Toyota (this is either for a 4runner or tacoma not sure which) at home. I tried to do this in the simplest way possible with the least amount of shock specific tools to help out the DIYers tackle their first rebuild. This is a great way to get more familiar with your suspension and gain the confidence and experience needed to revalve your shocks at home.

Apologies for the quality, these videos are supposed to be in 4k but im gonna be honest, i dont really know what im doing.

Here’s some links to the tools/products i used in this video, the amazon links are affiliate links and i do get a very very small portion of any purchases made when clicking through them.

Vice soft jaws:
Gloveworks HD Gloves:
Super Lube Synthetic Grease:
Shop Towels:
Variable Pin spanner:
Branick 7600 strut compressor:
HD snap ring pliers:

Powertanks shock inflators:
Reservoir Cap Removal Tool:
Harbor freight pick sets:
Shaft Seal Bullets:

We also have shock/suspension tools on our site:
Shock Shaft soft jaw:
Fox No-Loss Nitrogen Gauge:
AGM Shock cap jaws:

You can get rebuild kits, snap rings, and bearings from our friends at:

A few notes about shock rebuilds:
Many shocks have specs for ifp depth for the body/rod size/travel/resi length. When hydraulic fluid is heated it expands an average of 4% per 100 degrees F, 400 degrees of heat expansion over a 10″ 2.5 cylinder will increase the volume to around 11.5″ (not accounting for piston/rod displacement). If you don’t want to pull the resi apart to set IFP depth you can use hydraulic pressure by quickly cycling the piston in, or out, to move the IFP. If that fails just use some long needle nose pliers but don’t tell anyone i said to do that.

It’s critical that you clean the shims before putting them back on. Imagine if you get a spec of dirt or abraded O-ring in between your shims and don’t clean it off, even just half a thousandth (.0005″) of an inch of crud in between each individual valve… That will produce preload of .003″ and just that small amount of preload can have a substantial change in low speed damping force produced by the shock. This can critically alter your damping curve and take it from linear/progressive to digressive. This is also why you have to inspect the shims and replace any that are bent, warped, or otherwise damaged.

I was hoping to post the rebuild pdf along with this video but unfortunately no one is answering my emails, and i cant find mine in my shock drive. Ill be posting a video on rebuilding/revalving 7100s next, and this winter I’ve got some step by step revalving videos planned.

RTT security mounts/Shocks/Merch:

Podcast:

Instagram:

Thanks for following along
00:00 Introduction
00:59 Shock Overview
02:17 Release Nitrogen Pressure
03:31 Remove Wiper Assembly
04:42 Main Seal/Rod Removal
06:35 Piston/Valving
08:43 Drain old Oil
09:25 Reservoir End Cap Removal
10:59 Reservoir IFP
12:31 DSC internal inspection
12:52 Shock Parts overview
16:18 Replacing Main Seals
24:42 Rod/Seal/Piston Re-assembly
28:15 IFP install
28:52 Oil/Bleeding
31:13 Inserting the piston/rod
34:33 Seal Assembly install
36:24 Reservoir End Cap
39:08 Pressurizing
40:42 Final Assembly
42:05 Final Thoughts

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